![]() ![]() When the background was distant, I often got fringing around the crisply focused wings, legs etc. Initially I processed the stacks using the default "do stack" macro in CZM. Since CZM uses JPG files, I photograph the insects using the highest JPG resolution and sharpness that my Pentax *ist DSLR body will allow. I have a dedicated "rig" in the basement for stacked bug photography. I have used Combine ZM (CZM)to stack bug photos for 2.1 years. … Kevin Pfeiffer, 2 December, 2010 - 7:44am Must have had a dozen or so image layers - sounds tedious, but once you are comfortable with the stacking process, it all goes very quickly. ![]() (my image management program) and save (as JPEG)ħ) Export for BG as needed (scale and resharpen as needed) using Canon softwareĪnd batch export as 8-bit uncompressed TIF at 50%.ģ) Run Helicon Pro with Method B (throw outĥ) Post-process in Photoshop (if necessary)ī) "shadows/highlights" processing as neededĦ) Do any last minor tweaks and adjustments in Picasa My current process looks something like this:Ģ) Balance exposure, contrast, etc. Transparency sometimes seems to cause a bit of trouble, but usually if I have problems it's because I've mixed my stacks (two different setups) or the specimen has moved too much (sand helps). I usually use Method B my images are from the microscope and generally have a light background. I can't recall if it was Combine ZM that I tried briefly a while back (1-2 years), but I've been using Helicon Pro for sometime now and am still pleased with the job it does with only 1 click. Jay Barnes … Jay Barnes, 19 December, 2005 - 2:59pm Now, if you need to hide or reveal a larger sharpness area, just adjust the levels of the mask. Even THAT is too much work for me, so just do it once and record it as an Action. In both examples it is far better (and totally non-destructive!) to assemble multiple layers and use masks cover or reveal parts of the image from lower layers.įor selecting the sharp parts of an image to use in your mask: create a duplicate layer (Ctrl+J), go to menu Filter|Stylize|Find Edges, desaturate (Shift+Ctrl+U), menu Select|Color, select black with fuzziness 200, delete your duplicate layer, menu Layer|Add Layer Mask|Reveal Selection (or just click the Add layer mask icon in the layers palette). Same goes for the halo touch-up work, where it's recommended to clone pixels from one image or layer directly onto another one. It'll look good from far away, but get up close and you can see each individual piece. Selecting actual pixels and moving them to new layers to be recombined is a good way to end up with something that looks like a jigsaw puzzle. Within configurable limits it will automatically resize and balance the exposure of each image to help them match.īeware that the Photoshop methods described by Professor Hart are really not well-suited to editing photographs. Anyone who has a need to do this type of stuff often should seriously check out Helicon Focus. ![]()
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